By Stephen Watson By Stephen Watson | June 21, 2024 | Watches & Jewelry, Style & Beauty, Style & Beauty Feature, Style & Beauty,
Grand Seiko unveils a limited-edition Kodo watch inspired by Daybreak.
In 2022, Grand Seiko (grand-seiko.com) made waves at the Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva with the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. This Japanese watchmaker stunned the Swiss stronghold with a sophisticated timepiece that counteracts the effects of gravity, elevating accuracy to new heights. This marvel was its first mechanical complication, ingeniously combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism on a single axis—a groundbreaking feat in horology that earned the Chronometry Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the “Oscars” of watchmaking.
Grand Seiko’s latest limited-edition watch continues the Kodo saga, showcasing the brand’s dedication to bold innovation and precision. Inspired by the serene beauty of daybreak, this re-imagined Kodo captures the moment when morning light begins to reclaim the sky. Its icy silver-toned movement exudes a luminous and sophisticated aura, highlighting the meticulous craftsmanship of its hand-polished parts. This simple change dramatically transforms the Kodo’s appearance, yielding stunning results.
At the heart of this masterpiece is the innovative Caliber 9ST1, a marvel of engineering that integrates the constant-force mechanism and the tourbillon on a single axis. This design eliminates any loss or change in torque, ensuring approximately 50 hours of stable power and exceptional accuracy. the movement, a testament to Grand Seiko’s dedication to precision, undergoes rigorous testing over 34 days, meeting the Grand Seiko Standard for Constant Force. The inner tourbillon carriage rotates, the balance vibrates at eight beats per second, and the constant-force carriage ticks in precise one-second intervals. The harmony of these elements produces a unique, soothing, rhythmic sound.
Designed and assembled at Atelier Ginza, the new Kodo joins the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection as a limited edition of 20 pieces. The watch features a platinum 950 inner case and an outer case made of Brilliant Hard Titanium, an alloy twice as hard as stainless steel. This combination creates a natural gradation and enduring beauty, further accentuated by various polishing techniques and finishes, all meticulously applied by Grand Seiko’s master artisans. The Kodo gets paired with a leather strap tanned using techniques found in traditional Samurai armor, available in a unique new white color, along with an additional charcoal gray crocodile strap.
High-end watchmakers often include tourbillons to demonstrate technical prowess and craftsmanship, creating visual drama. The rotating mechanism is typically visible through the watch’s dial or case back, and in the Kodo, it is entirely visible. Blue sapphires, used for the first time in a Grand Seiko movement, evoke the brisk morning sky. This elegant design choice, combined with the open-work layout, reveals the intricate hand-finished movement and reflects a Japanese aesthetic that values the use of empty space. Grand Seiko has created a breathtaking watch that exposes only the essentials and, by doing so, places Japanese heritage and minimalist aesthetics at the forefront.
Photography by: Courtesy of brand