By: Chandler Presson By: Chandler Presson | December 21, 2022 | Food & Drink,
Chef and restaurateur Ruben Rodriguez of Nai Restaurant Group has done it again with new Spanish-inspired restaurant Kōbo.
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Located in the East Village, Kōbo is all about the pasta. The concept brings together Rodriguez’s Spanish upbringing and his travels through Italy and the Mediterranean, with the menu focusing on seven handmade pastas inspired by well-known dishes. The cuisine gets a welcome modern twist through the snacks, starts and mains, all of which are designed for sharing.
Rodriguez grew up in Galicia, Spain, and brings his mother’s family recipes to Kōbo. Co-executive chef Rafael de la Rosa, formerly of Minetta Tavern, and beverage director Niko Hagerty also bring extensive expertise to the project. Expect to find clean, fresh ingredients all over the menu, which bolster the housemade breads and pastas. The snacks, such as mortadella with cornichon on sourdough, oysters with orange and rosemary and fresh baked daily focaccia with herb butter, are only the start.
The space’s large dining room is centered by a Brazilian champaign pink natural stone counter, which serves dual purposes of enjoying cocktails and dining. A bespoke light fixture by a renowned Seattle-based, Native New York designer sits above the bar, complete with 1,117 handcrafted pieces of wood that form a three-dimensional wave shape. Custom-made wooden furniture and millwork continue throughout the main dining room, drawing the two spaces together.
Consider bringing plenty of friends, as the menu begs to be shared. Highlights from the starters include cured sea bream with blood orange, grapefruit, black olive, and rosemary; asparagus dressed in hollandaise, Calabrian chili, and anchovies; grilled sardines with cilantro chimichurri and charred lemon; and fried calamari with lemon aioli.
The pastas are certainly not to be missed and will rotate seasonally while being headlined by the signature Fideua, a Valencian pasta form of paella made with saffron-infused squid ink pasta, octopus and baby squid. For now, the opening menu features pappardelle with Sichuan peppercorn and Parmigiano; mafaldine in pork cheek ragu with paprika breadcrumbs and aged pecorino; and lasagna with lamb and curry béchamel.
Lastly, mains include the classic Spanish Iberico Pork Milanesa, served with frisée and honey mustard dressing; grilled chicken thigh and leg with fingerling potatoes, grilled lemon and garlic, and whole dorade with lemon potatoes, black olive, and herbs.
Service director and sommelier Raul Oleaga curated the wine program, which leans Italian while also highlighting selections from Spain, France and other wine-producing regions from the Mediterranean. Favor a cocktail? Never fret, Kōbo also features a full bar program showcasing classic cocktails. Reservations can be made here.
Photography by: Kathryn M. Sheldon