By: Chandler Presson By: Chandler Presson | December 6, 2024 | Food & Drink, Feature,
Named in tribute to a park in his hometown of Lyon, France, chef Daniel Boulud’s first steakhouse, La Tête d’Or by Daniel, proves America’s oldest ally still rings true through its phenomenal fusion of French cuisine with the classic New York steakhouse.
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Newly opened inside luxury building One Madison, La Tête d’Or boasts all the necessary elements of an excellent New York steakhouse: beautiful fresh ingredients, elevated yet comfortable interiors, generous portion sizes and, of course, irresistible steaks. Now add in the impeccable attention to detail and advanced cooking methods that chef Boulud is known for, and the results are truly remarkable.
The first thing to hit your table will be the signature drinks menu full of inventive yet approachable cocktails. If you choose to imbibe, the Gold Digger, a take on the French 75 crafted with Monkey 47 gin, Lillet Blanc, Yellow Chartreuse, St. Germain, Champagne and a gold fleck garnish, is delicious. Naturally, the deep wine list is exceptional, celebrating rich, bold reds of France, California, and Italy, with both iconic labels and hidden gems abounding. Yet, as fabulous as the drinks are, the real star of the show is chef Boulud’s fare.
The chef’s menu reflects the amalgam of France and New York, with indulgent portions fit for a NY steakhouse and preparations that do justice to the art of French cuisine. The menu is split between courses and begins with seafood-forward starters. Standouts abound throughout the menu, with the diver scallop crudo’s delicate balance of earthy radishes and fresh, silky scallops making it a can’t-miss starter.
From there, small bowls of soup and sharable salads are next, with the tableside-prepared Caesar salad being a crowd favorite. We also love the seafood salad “Louie,” complete with Bibb lettuce, avocado, crudités and a horseradish garnish for a slight spice on the backend. Caviar lovers should rejoice, as the caviar offerings requires no compromises, whether you prefer an indulgent oeuf au caviar preparation or a simple presentation with chips.
Equal parts beautiful and delicious, the showstopping seafood towers can’t help but turn heads throughout the dining room, as the arrangement of world-class oysters, Littleneck clams, lobsters, blue shrimp, P.E.I. mussels rouille, tuna tartare, King crab and more easily makes the arrangement one of the best in the city.
The mains give choice between perfectly prepared beef steaks and other chops, such as Yellowfin tuna steak, Dover sole or Colorado lamb triple chops. Diners can choose between a classic preparation or a new neighborhood favorite coined Madison-style, which entails topping a steak with black truffle, foie gras, oxtail and artichoke (artichokes are traditionally paired with truffle in Lyon). If you’re lucky, the prime rib trolley will not have sold out, and Scharbauer Ranch American Wagyu ribeye sliced to order awaits.
“My cuisine is always rooted in tradition, with the use of the finest seasonal ingredients, and a steakhouse is the ideal showcase for these elements,” said chef Boulud. “It is quite a simple, universal pleasure, an excellent steak and a great sauce, but it needs to be executed with precision, and it needs to have soul.” Perfect sauces are the crux of the marriage between French cuisine and an American steakhouse, so it comes as no surprise that La Tête d’Or’s are truly impressive. We particularly love the béarnaise and the horseradish cream. Many of the sauces use cornstarch rather than a flour roux, making them more allergen-friendly. Finally, an evening spent at La Tête d’Or is not the time to skip dessert, as chef Boulud’s take on the American classics of cake and ice cream hit all the right notes, including a build-your-own sundae right at your table.
All the bells and whistles one would expect of a Dinex Group concept are in full form (think Riedel stemware, bread service, custom Bernardaud porcelain and both a coat check room and leftovers check room). To match, one of the most prolific names in the hospitality industry, David Rockwell of Rockwell Group, crafted gorgeous interiors befitting of chef Boulud’s cuisine. It comes as no surprise that the design is the epitome of sophisticated yet subtle elegance. Buttery warm light provided by custom amber glass sconces and fluted chandeliers spills over welcoming plush velvet banquettes and softly padded walls. Deep blue tones, dark wood accents and art deco accents all help to offset the soaring ceilings and ground the 120-seat dining room. The result is a comfortable, romantic atmosphere befitting of a steakhouse.
Naturally, La Tête d’Or has already proved to be the new it-spot to see and be seen, a trend we expect to continue throughout 2025 and beyond. The thoughtful beverage program, sophisticated interiors, impeccable service and irresistible menu all prove that the newest addition to the Dinex Group not only honors its illustrious past but elevates its future to new heights.
Photography by: F&B Images by Evan Sung; all other images by Jason Varney for Rockwell Group