“Ulla Johnson’s Fall/Winter 2022 show unfurls within The New York Public Library’s venerated 5th Avenue lobby, an iconic space of grand proportion that creates a serene, marble-clad moment of respite amidst the city’s electric landscape.
You hear a light rustling sound, and turn to see generous folds of golden taffeta sweeping by in the air. Visions of checkered rouching, swirling florals, and intricate geometries flow through the vaulted stone space to an infectious beat, the faint patter of pebble-adorned slippers echoing up the cool stone walls.
The Fall/ Winter 2022 experience explores this contrast between the radiant and the distorted, from the collection’s juxtaposition of textures, prints, and shapes to its conversation with Allen’s evocative creations,” the release states.
The release states, “Sculpted frocks in vividly acidic duchess satin, paillette-adorned handmade embroidery, and pointillist shibori-printed chiffon create a patchwork of delicate contrasts and luxe imperfections.
Silk grosgrain ribbons are disrupted by wooly boucle, and a heavy silk fil coupe is emblazoned with a broken tulip motif. A baroque psychedelia is unleashed in a pair of explosive floral prints—stars and swirling flowers, descending from the cosmos, land upon tiered and pleated layers of poplin and silk twill.
Dashes of chalcedony and citrine race through a palette of jasper, garnet, umber, and amethyst. Onyx and pearl dance across twisted body-skimming frocks beneath a star-quilted jacket, as draped knits, slouch above oversized satin trousers.”
“Johnson’s signature poetic volumes are contrasted by fitted silhouettes, nipped waists, and structured materials. Thematic juxtapositions linger between the rustic, ornate, and utilitarian, while the interplay of refined versus louche attitudes invokes a quietly grunge vision of luxe layering.
Past and future collide in a dizzying vertiginous mélange; metallic textures contrast with rich, handmade materials in an earthen palette. Gossamer crepe de chine and gauzy handknit mohair intarsia are paired with sumptuous chenille jacquards and chunky mouline separates. Johnson’s inaugural denim line joins this conversation of balances with effortlessly cool shapes from low-slung and slouchy to high-waisted and refined,” according to the release.